Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Russia St. Petersburg

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Russia  St. Petersburg

 
 
 
Whether traversing the bustling Nevskii Prospekt, admiring the grand residential architecture on Vasilievskii Island, or taking in the awe inspiring Palace Square, visitors will find each of St. Petersburg's neighborhoods steeped in culture and history.

Russia Central

Nevskii Prospekt is a grand-scale thoroughfare cutting right through the heart of the city. The rough triangle (to the north of Nevskii) formed by the street's central stretch, the Fontanka canal and the Neva is crammed full of St. Petersburg's main cultural attractions and a good number of its restaurants and places of entertainment. There's the Winter Palace and Palace Square , the Saviour on Spilled Blood Cathedral and Museum , the Russian Museum , the Mussorgsky Concert Hall and the nearby Philharmonic. On the south side of Nevskii Prospekt stands the impressive semi-circular and columned Kazan Cathedral and further along you will find the central department store Gostinyi Dvor which is not far from the plush Grand Hotel Europe .

This is the touristic, commercial and cultural heart of the city where visitors are guaranteed to spend a large chunk of their time. Nevskii itself is buzzing at all hours, but traffic (both human and vehicular) can be escaped by venturing to the peaceful Summer Gardens which are located north of the triangle.

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Vasilievskii Island

This large chunk of land lies to the northwest of the center, dividing the river Neva into the Greater and Lesser Nevas. Although the island is now primarily a sleepy residential district, it played a major role in the city's early history.

Peter the Great originally intended Vasilevskii to be the city's center and therefore encouraged newly-arrived nobles and merchants to set themselves up there. His plans were never realized—problems with the construction of a canal network and the logistical nightmare of locating a city center on a sometimes inaccessible island encouraged the rise of Nevksii Prospekt as the alternative hub of the city. Nonetheless, testimony to the former importance of the island lies in the cluster of museums and buildings on the eastern side—the pre-revolutionary stock exchange building (now home to a Naval Museum) still stands here, along with Peter's macabre Kunstkammer museum and a little further on, St. Petersburg State University —the alma mater of President Putin.

Beyond this there isn't a lot to see or do on Vasilievskii, although if you want a look at some awe-inspiring Soviet architecture you could do a lot worse than the vast residential building stretching westwards from Primorskaia metro. Also nearby is the hulking mass of the Swedish-built Pribaltiiskaia hotel which stands atop an extensive open area of concrete looking out onto the Gulf of Finland.

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The Petrograd Side & the Kirov Islands

When Peter the Great first concocted his grand plan for a capital city on the Gulf of Finland, construction began on the Peter and Paul Fortress , located on the northern shores of the Neva. Although Nevskii Prospekt may constitute the heart of modern-day St. Petersburg, the city's origins actually lie on the other side of the river.

The area to the north of the fortress is known as the Petrograd side. After the construction of Trinity Bridge , the area experienced something of a housing boom, contributing to its essentially residential nature. That said, it's not without interest. For a start, there's the Museum of Political History (in which Russia is not exactly lacking) and the "ship that launched the revolution"—the Aurora —which is moored just around the embankment from the fortress. The Petrograd side was home to a number of notables (including Shostakovich, Lenin and Pavlov), each of whom have respective apartment museums situated here.

The islands—Krestovskii, Kamennyi and Yelagin—are favorite winding-down spots for Petersburgers tired of the hectic city life to the south. Lurking at the western end of Krestovskii Island is the huge Kirov Stadium.

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South & West of Nevskii

The area south and west of Nevskii (again, the area of land enclosed by the Neva, Nevskii and this time the southern stretch of the Fontanka canal) is also home to many tourist delights which are obviously less concentrated here than in the heart of the city. The tone of the area can change fairly dramatically: Sennaia Ploshchad is about 15 minutes by foot from the imperial St. Isaac's Square, but in comparison to the soaring grandeur of St Isaac's Cathedral or the elegance of its neighbor the Astoria hotel, it's a dingy vision of haphazard kiosks. However, much of the area is residential and fairly sleepy.

Behind Gostinyi Dvor stands Apraksin Dvor—a downmarket complex of market stalls, smaller stores and cafes. At the northern end stands the Admiralty and the Bronze Horseman —two great symbols of the city—while deeper inside the territory stands the world-famous Mariinskii Theatre , the city's premiere cultural venue.

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Beyond the Fontanka

This incorporates a huge area, including the eastern end of Nevskii as well as the Liteinyi, Vladimirskaia and Smolnyi regions.

Beyond the Fontanka, Nevskii itself becomes more solidly commercial, although a glance above shop level reveals an impressive mish-mash of architectural styles. The modern, luxury Nevskij Palace hotel is situated about a ten minute's walk from the Fontanka.

Vladimirskaia—to the south—is a bustling hub of activity, its main thoroughfares being important shopping areas. The area is also dotted with museums such as the Dostoevsky Museum .
To the north, Liteinyi Prospekt and the area around Chernyshevskaia metro is a little quieter and more restrained. Maybe there's a reason for this—at the end of the street lie the former offices of the St. Petersburg KGB. It's very much a residential/commercial district, but there are nonetheless a few cultural attractions to be found here.

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The Country Estates

The city itself isn't exactly lacking in extravagant monuments from the Imperial age, but if you want a glimpse of just how extravagant Russia's pre-Communist rulers really were, you'll need to jump on a suburban train and visit at least one of the Tsarist country residences. Though nearly all the palaces were sacked by the Germans during their World War II invasion, the palaces have been well-restored to their former glory.

For sheer bombastic opulence, visit Peterhof —built to order by Peter the Great as a riotously over-the-top testimony to Russia's victory over Sweden. The huge Catherine Palace at Tsarskoe Selo is also grand, while the other estates— Pavlovsk , Oranienbaum (also known as Lomonosov) and Gatchina —are not quite as ostentatious but are still redolent of Imperial grandeur.

Istanbul

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Istanbul




Nowhere does fusion like the best of Istanbul, a metropolis that owes as much to its centuries of history as it does to its emergence as one of the most dynamic cities in Asia or Europe.
It's strikingly beautiful. The Bosphorus -- aka the Istanbul Strait, the stretch of water that divides two continents -- stretches calmly before you under the warmth of the sun while the city soars above the shore.
But, mostly, the best of Istanbul is a jumble of activity, 13 million citizens strong, from celebrants staggering out of bars at 4 a.m. to imams calling the faithful out to prayer at dawn.
You can hear the hustle just as surely as you can see it. The horns of impatient taxi drivers. The lilting melodies of street musicians. The laughter of children. The clinking of raki glasses. And always, the whining cries of seagulls overhead.
The one thing to know about the best of Istanbul is that it’s growing, giving visitors more options than they can fit into any single trip.
Not that it’s ever stopped us from trying.

Hotels

Istanbul

 
 
Most of best hotels are located on the European side in either Sultanahmet (location of most popular historical sites) or near and around Taksim Square (the city center), including the Beşiktaş, Maçka, Tepebaşı, and Galata neighborhoods.

Istanbul


Luxury


Istanbul

The Four Seasons Sultanahmet -- once a prison, now a luxury one-nighter.Four Seasons Sultanahmet
Once an Ottoman prison, this best of Istanbul neoclassical building is now the Four Seasons boutique hotel located in the center of the old city, or Sultanahmet.
With a view of the famous Sultanahmet and Hagia Sophia mosques, the hotel is steps away from Topkapı Palace and a 10-minute walk from the Grand Bazaar.
Some 65 uniquely designed rooms offer modern amenities and a serene courtyard, where genuinely great dining is available at the Seasons restaurant.
The Lounge serves cocktails, coffee and snacks. A fitness and spa center is also available with a range of massage options, including aromatherapy and Balinese

Dining

Istanbul

 
Müzedechanga -- seafood on the seashore.Changa and Müzedechanga
After opening in 1999, Changa has simply got better -- the restaurant received a local Best New Restaurant award and was featured in numerous international magazines and newspapers.
Its contemporary Turkish menu is composed of fresh and locally produced items that change with the seasons. Apart from the à la carte menu, a tasting menu (for two or more people) is also available.
Grilled octopus with spicy red miso and nori sauce; grilled loin of lamb with roasted quince and peanuts with sumac molasses; wasabi and salmon tortellini in creamy lemongrass sauce. This is innovative and fine contemporary dining at its height.
Changa closes for the summer and Müzedechanga, located within the Sakip Sabanci Museum, continues the menu in the hot summer months; Siraselviler Caddesi No. 47/1, Taksim; +90 212 251 70 64; www.changa-istanbul.com


Mikla has a view so good, you'd gladly pay extra.Mikla

Mikla chef Mehmet Gürs’ dual nationality has a strong influence on his Scandinavian-Turkish menu.
Open since 2005, this best of Istanbul restaurant focuses on creative fusion, with dishes such as molasses-glazed lamb with apricot and mustard-seeded mashed potato, or Gravlax with Turkish cacık (yogurt with chopped cucumber).
Along with a solid wine list, the restaurant’s top-floor spot allows for views of Istanbul dressed for night. The bar and terrace are good options for after-dinner drinks.
Meşrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Beyoğlu; +90 212 293 56 56; www.miklarestaurant.com


Hünkar serves it up, the locals lap it up.Hünkar
If you didn’t grow up eating the home-cooked recipes of a talented Turkish grandmother, then Hünkar may become your second home.
Whether you eat from the buffet or order from the menu, every dish -- from cold meze starters to main dishes of Ottoman descent -- tastes the way locals like it.
Items include Hünkar Beğendi (smoked eggplant puree topped with lamb or beef chunks), fava bean spread and aşure (pudding of chickpeas, kidney beans, rice and sugar topped with walnuts, pistachios, pomegranate, almonds and cinnamon).
The tasting menu encapsulates almost everything Turkish cuisine has to offer and is a good start for beginners.

Istanbul’s Street Food – What’s Hot And What’s Not!

 

Istanbul

Picture of street seller in Istanbul selling corn. www.bestwayfinder.com
    
by Luca T. Davis
Eating street food is very much part of the Istanbul way of life. You can’t walk for over a kilometer without coming accross one or more street vendors and a dozen of snack shops or büfes. And with street food we don’t just mean food literally bought and eaten on the street, but also an array of light snacks such as pastry (börek), kebap, döner and meatballs (köfte). Here’s is an overview of what’s hot and what’s not, as well as a list of usual suspects.

Hot Istanbul Street Food

 

 Istanbul

 
    Döner seller on the streets of Istanbul, Turkey. www.bestwayfinder.com


    Döner seller on the streets of Istanbul.
  • Kebap – together with döner, this is probably the first street food that comes to any tourist’s mind when asked to name one. Kebap actually means small pieces of broiled or roasted meat — generally cow, sheep or chicken. Excellent dishes you may want to try out are İskender Kebap, Adana Kebap, Patlıcan Kebap and Şiş Kebap.
  • Döner – this tightly packed meat roasted on a large vertical spit is the basis for fast-food snacks (or even full meals) such as Pilav Üstü Döner, İskedender and Dürüm. Although you can find these half-outside/half-inside eateries almost anywhere, for the biggest concentration head to the beginning of Istiklal Caddesi in Taksim.
  • Börek – a flaky pastry consisting of several thin layers, often with a specific shape and/or filling. You’ll see locals entering these tiny shops for a quick breakfast or lunch. Among my favorites are ıspanaklı börek (with spinach filling), peynirli börek (with cheese filling), kıymalı börek (with minced meat filling) and patatesli börek (with potato filling). If you prefer it rather plain, you can’t go wrong with su böreği.
  • Pide – a slightly leavened, flat pizza like bread. They again come in different styles, with Kaşarlı Pide (melted cheese) and Sucuklu Pide (melted cheese and spicy sausage) among the most popular.
  • Lahmacun – a Turkish-style pizza. A very thin round piece of pide, with a cheese and tomato layer as well as some (minced) meat. It is often served with a salad and a few pieces of lemon in a side dish. You’ll see locals topping the pizza with the salad, sprinkling is with lemon and making a roll out of it.
  • Mısır – freshly boiled or grilled corn on the cob, often sprinkled with salt or spices. This popular snack is almost exclusively sold during the summer months by the real street sellers with their push-cars.
  • Kestane – due to the lack of corn in winter, the street vendors mentioned above shift to roasted chestnuts in winter time.
  • Balık ekmek – literaly translated ‘fish bread’. And that’s basically what it is — freshly caught fish, grilled or fried in front of your eyes and stuffed inside a large piece of bread. Fans of this fast-food can have a blast in Eminönü, on the shore next to the Galata Bridge.

Cold Istanbul Street Food

 

Istanbul

    Simit and acma on display in Istanbul, Turkey. www.bestwayfinder.com

    Simit and açma on display in push-car.
  • Simit – a crisp, ring-shaped, savory roll covered with sesame. Sold by street sellers with glass-fronted push-cars. There are two main versions: sokak simit (sold on the streets and very crispy) and pastane simit (sold in shops and softer).
  • Açma – a ring-shaped savory bun — a Turkish-style dougnut if you will. It’s soft but also a bit oily.
  • Poğaça – a flaky, savory pastry. You can go for the plain one (sade) or choose one with a filling: peynirli (cheese), kıymalı (minced meat), or my personal favorite — zeytinli (black olives)

The Usual Suspects

Istanbul



When wandering through Istanbul’s streets, you’ll also notice the following snacks being sold. While they’re all delicious when fresh and prepared well, be cautious when buying them on the (sunny) streets. Ask for local advice as to where to order them best!
    Kokoreç on its horizontal skewer in Istanbul, Turkey.
    Kokoreç on its horizontal skewer.


     
  • Midye dolma – stuffed mussels. If you’re a fan, you m
  • ay want to prefer eating those in a real restaurant.
  • Çiğ köfte – a dish made of raw ground meat, pounded wheat and red pepper. It’s a delicacy, but we all know what effect the burning sun may have on raw meat. Again, check our restaurant listing in order not to cut your holiday short.
  • Kokoreç – grilled sheep intestines with an almost industrial amount of spices, roasted on a skewer. A very popular snack after a night out and (too) many drinks. So which skewer has the döner and which one the intestines? Luckily for us, the kokoreç skewer is always positioned horizontally.